Posts Tagged ‘control line’

Back in Circles!

May 23, 2014

Well, I finally did it…got back into my model airplane hobby after 40 years of lay-off. Now that I’m older and a bit more financially capable with spare time, I can afford the control-line hobby that I gave up years ago when “real life” stepped in.

A year ago I made the mistake of going to that online auction monster and found that the models I built (or drooled to have) when I was a teen could be had pretty readily. I was taken aback to find that the cost was going to be so high, however. Planes and engines that I used to desire at $2.00 dollars and $5.00 respectively were now considered collector’s items and *could* be had –  at exorbitant prices. But what the heck, the heart wants what the heart wants, right?

So, after some time collecting and little time building, I finally met some flyers here in New England that flew the old-style classic way; not radio control, but rather the venerable method of standing in the middle of a circle and letting the plane roar around 60 feet away, climbing, diving, looping, flying upside-down and (sometimes) playing lawn dart in a crunching crash; all at the flick of a wrist.

I completed four planes and was pretty pleased with the results; the last one being a new technology electric plane that I just “had” to have after watching one of the veterans put his through its very quiet and perfect routine. I found out that my passion for flying had been tempered by the caution of *maturity*, however and I was reluctant to actually “fly” my creations for over a year. Finally I was gently but firmly goaded by the senior pilots to get off my duff and put something in the air.

So, on a perfect afternoon in Saugus, MA, I met up with my friend Dick, a great flyer, and two others to get my wings dusted off. After an initial technical inspection to make sure the plane was safe, Dick took the plane up to make sure it was ready to hand off to me. We put a fresh battery in and I took the control handle with more than a little trepidation. Dick started the engine and off I went! The plane left the closely mown grass after only a few feet and didn’t disappoint me or surprise me with any bad habits. I felt as if I had never left the circle I remembered from the ’70’s.

I was back and severely hooked!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA ME109 Ringmaster_02 Shoestring02 Clown01 yak02

June 12th, 2014

I just completed the finishing touches to my Electric Super Ringmaster and I’m pretty happy happy with the way it turned out. The only problem I have right now is that I have gout in my right wrist so I will have to hold off flying for a bit. Here are a couple of shots of the effort.



“DO” Get All Knotted Up!

February 17, 2010

Recent questions in a control line forum have revolved around the use of  a  type of mono-filament fishing line as control line leads for 1/2A planes. Known by names such as “Spiderwire” and others, the line was specifically designed for its high strength/diameter ratio and low stretch characteristics to “feel” the fish better. This makes it a perfect fit for our smaller planes and a vast improvement over .008 steel line right?

Well, maybe.

The truth is, as every fisherman knows, the total strength of a line is not only in the material itself, but in the knot that holds it to something, in the case of a fisherman, the hook and then (hopefully) a picture moment. In our case it may be the sudden shock of a plane gone slack at the top and then suddenly taking back that slack with a scary “pop”! Three bad things can happen if you try to use regular mono fishing line, the  last two involving the subject of this article:

  • “Boing-Blap” – the plane uses that stretch to play rubber band with the poor fellow at the handle and rendering the event to an accident involving “PIO” (Pilot Induced Oscillation)
  • “ZipThud” – the effect of an inappropriate knot for the line untying itself.
  • “Plink-Thump” – the plane separates and goes ballistic, in missile speak, “unguided” because the line broke at the knot.

The use of modern non-stretch lines take out these problems provided the right knot is used. If you have any doubts about the suitability of these lines for our use, consider that modern fishing tackle is among the most highly engineered areas of technology and the knots developed for “terminal tackle” are just as important as the motor on that $50,000 bass boat.

These should work out just fine. Obviously, replace your connector clips for the fish hook.

Another tip: Paint your connectors to match those of the “up” leadout on your plane. Sounds simple, but I’ve lost a couple to mismatched connections. This is particularly helpful when a “friend” is assisting you to ready for a flight.

Try these knots with a simple test. Drop a weight that is twice what your plane weighs from about 3 feet with the line and knot of your choice. That should boost your confidence factor.

The knots and instructions on this page are from Bill Herzog’s great book, Tying Strong Fishing Knots, published by Frank Amato Publications.

Improved clinch knot
Undoubtedly the most familiar and most often used knot by anglers. Being quick and easy to tie are the main reasons behind its popularity. When tied perfectly the clinch retains 85 to 90 percent of line strength. It can be used with lines testing from 2 to 60 pounds. When using monos heavier than 15 pound test, you only need 3 or 4 turns rather than the standard 6 to 7.
improved clinch knot step 1 Step 1: Insert 4 to 6 inches of line end through the hook eye, making 6 to 7 wraps around the standing part of the leader/line. Insert the line end through the small loop near the eye, then bring it back through larger loop.
improved clinch knot step 2 Step 2: Pull on both the swivel/hook/lure and standing line in even opposite directions until knot draws tightly against hook eye. Trim tag end.

Double loop clinch knot (Trilene knot)
Called Trilene knot because it was developed by the staff of Berkley Company for specific use with their Trilene brand of monofilament. The double loop clinch works just as well with other brands. It takes a bit longer to tie that the original clinch. When properly tied it retains 95 percent of line strength.
double loop clinch knot step 1 Step 1: Insert line end through hook/lure eye twice, leaving 4 to 5 inches of tag end to work with.
double loop clinch knot step 2 Step 2: Repeat steps for clinch knot.
double loop clinch knot step 3 Step 3: Pull evenly on standing line and hook/lure/swivel, being careful not to allow double line to cross over itself. Overlapping lines are self-cutting and severely weaken knots. Trim tag end.

Double improved clinch (Rivers Inlet knot)
I was first exposed to this knot during a trip to British Columbia’s famed Rivers Inlet, home each summer to some of the largest, most powerful Chinook salmon. Guides explained that they needed a knot to turn 70 pound fish without fear of line failure. The Rivers Inlet knot is one of the strongest and is fairly easy to tie. When tied properly it retains 100 percent of original line strength and may be a hair stronger than the standing line itself. It is an excellent light line knot, but may be used with lines testing up to 40 pounds.
double improved clinch rivers inlet knot step 1 Step 1: Take 8 to 10 inches of leader/standing line and double it back, creating a double line. Pass the loop through the hook eye/swivel/lure 4 to 5 inches.
double improved clinch rivers inlet knot step 2 Step 2: Make 4 wraps back up the leader/standing line. Three wraps is plenty when using over 20 pound test, however, making less than 4 wraps will not securely hold the knot and more than 4 wraps causes the wraps to bunch up and overlap themselves.
double improved clinch rivers inlet knot step 3 Step 3: Pull evenly and firmly on the loop, tag end and standing line simultaneously, being careful not to let wraps or the double line bunch up or cross over themselves.
double improved clinch rivers inlet knot step 4 Step 4: Trim all three ends.

Palomar knot
Almost as simple to tie as the clinch knot, the Palomar is one of the basics. When tied well it retains 95 percent of line strength. While not popular for parger lures with multiple trebles (due to having to pass the lure through a loop when tying), the Palomar is easily tied with small lures, flies, and swivels.
palomar knot step 1 Step 1: Double 6 to 8 inches of standing line and run it through the hook eye/swivel/lure.
palomar knot step 2 Step 2: Bring the loop back and make one overhand knot around the standing line and the tag end. Make sure you leave a large enough loop for the lure/swivel and hook to pass through.
palomar knot step 3 Step 3: After hook/lure/swivel has cleared loop, hold onto the tag end and standing line in one hand and pull slowly until loop passes. Continue steady pulling until loop closes tightly and trim. The Palomar is one of the most versatile monofilament knots.

This plane will be in the air in just a few weeks with the line and knots as described here.

Almost There!

Please Leave your comments!

Knock the dust off!

February 15, 2010

In keeping with the last few nostalgia posts, I want to put these advertisements from 1955 out there for appreciation before I turn my own writing along a slightly different line. (My brother is not going to be pleased) so check out the category Buster and Bo later while I revisit the days of our youth. Don’t fret, there will be much more here in the future, especially with your help.

Combatants! Gird your Loins…er…your “Lines”

February 12, 2010

As mentioned elsewhere in these modeling posts I enjoy control line flying and F/F scale, but two areas I haven’t tried are U/C combat and speed. In truth, there are pretty good reasons for this lack of involvement on my part in either area. On the one hand, I just never was exposed to folks that participated and the other issue and related to the first is the sheer technical nature and scale of the hobby.

Since I know nothing about speed, I’ll just talk about what I know of combat and let the rest of you, dear readers enlighten me and those who come here after.

When I started building U/C planes I worked with the simple things:; 1/2 profiles like the Baby Ringmaster, Li’l Jumping Bean and then working my way upscale to sport profiles and stunt (Top Flight Tutor). The fanciest plane I ever flew was a foam wing stunt Mustang by Sig. The building was simple as were the engines and, since I did not compete, there was no real pressure. It was definitely fun flying with friends and the occasional fun fly. Since I wasn’t a competitor of any merit, I concentrated on building and finishing, figuring that if the plane looked good and I stayed away from inverted grass cutting pullouts I’d be fine.

Combat was a whole ‘nuther beast! Snarling, loud and full-on contact between pilots (never mind the planes) it was the polar opposite to the relatively calm business of getting a single plane up and around the circle doing a few whoop-de-doos before usually executing a perfect landing two feet above the grass followed by a bouncing rodeo impression ending up with the nose down and the tail up (or over). These guys (the ones I saw occasionally) were, as a general rule pretty “amped up” as we say today.

"Full Contact Combat"

My memories were all about pen bladders, the benefits of one prop over another, how best to get another 1/2 RPM out of an engine that was already going hypersonic as far as the DB level was concerned.

The "Screamers"

I have to admit though, most of the behaviors I just mentioned were brought forward by the “new kids on the block” as it were. The “old hands” were just as helpful and giving of experience as the stunt guys and those who saw scale planes as perfection never quite realized but always ready to pass a good word along.

As a builder, I sincerely appreciated the craftsmanship of most of these planes. Before the days of foam, carbon fiber and clear film came along, there were some real beauties. It didn’t matter if it was a Voodoo or whatever, the building was great. The framework was simple:balsa and ply with a minimum of excess. Light was right. Doped silk was a primary covering material as much for it’s inherent strength as for its beauty.

New Meaning to the Phrase "Purpose Built"

These were not the slickly finished planes of stunt, but the practical tools for one-on-one bouts. They had to be for the rigors of turns so tight it seemed they could be pulled inside a barrel. A thump into the turf at full speed (100mph+) and the ability to fly again was indeed a marvel. On the other hand, mid-air collisions were spectacular and did, in fact, fulfill the craving for carnage.

Several recent posts have turned up in one of my favorite forums about building the “Golden Age” combat planes and I have to admit to the one comment I read that “It would be a shame to fly this in combat”. Personally, I’d like to see them built and flown just for the sheer joy of the building and flying. Combat flyers today have as many as a dozen planes in their stables, but I’d like to see the older planes finished as if they were pylon racers of the Full Scale days. Maybe a new class for fun fly ins?

Where is This in the Grand Scheme?

Link to Link

February 8, 2010

These are a few aviation modeling links that I use quite often and I’ll add to them as I revisit this post. Bear in mind that My interests in model aviation are primarily based around Control-Line and some Free Flight scale. I am purely into the sport side and I’m a firm believer in fun flys and the weekends when the guys get together at the local schoolyard or empty parking lot/airplane eater.

Part of getting back into the hobby is trying to reconnect with former flying friends or make new ones. So here goes:

  • Who knows anything of the group that meets (met) in Rolling Meadows, Il, off Golf road in the Ned Brown Preserve? They called themselves “The Circle Burners” but I can find no reference to them. One of those fine fellows even sold me a war-weary Ringmaster minus engine (I had a Fox 35) for $5. New Silkspan, a little dope, an open cockpit with headrest and the “Sheriff Woody” head from a McDonalds toy for a pilot had me back in the circle again. Woody did NOT like inverted landings.
  • I have a great flying site picked out at the former Ft Devens in Ayer, MA on the rail line between Boston and Fitchburg. If I could get some interest, I’m sure we’d be able to use it anytime we like. There is no traffic, the adjacent ball fields are hardly used and there are no residential houses within “bothersome noise” distance. If there are any circle-turners out there, or you know some, get in touch.
  • Finally, there were three of us in the mid’70 when gas cost 27 cents a gallon who met in Euless, Texas. If you are out there, write.

I believe in networking, so I’m sure that something will come of this post.

Now for the “other” links. I know that you probably have seen these, but I believe in mutual exchange, so check them out and comment and if it fits this blog, I’ll add it here!

A few general notes about “forums” that I hope the moderators will appreciate:

  • Read and abide by the forum bylaws/rules
  • Leave the egos at home, I’m one of the worst offenders of this. On the other hand, post your latest hit/miss. We all enjoy the pleasures and feel the pain.
  • Pictures, pictures, pictures! We all want to see the projects that are depriving you of a family life, income and time otherwise spent profitably. Make sure you get those photos of you, the project in it’s construction and your friends before you launch the pride of your efforts. If you can, post them here as well as in the forums. Get your friends in them too, just let me know in the captions who the guy is giving you rabbit ears behind your back or the one helping you wrap a greasy rag around the finger that the .35 Fox bit when it snapped back on ya!
  • Try to stay on topic, but do not be afraid to start a new one or ask where your post could be better addressed. (Again, this is one of the places where I don’t always follow my own advice.)

Now then, on to the links. The first batch are generally non-commercial and provide a huge wealth of experience and knowledge. Be sure to follow the links included there and bookmark those that are important to you. My biggest mistake is forgetting to mark them, thinking I’ll just backtrack later. It’s much easier to tag them on the spot than it is to resort to memory. Especially if your memory is as fragile as mine; just about the same as fresh wet silkspan in the claws of the cat.

Mostly Commercial (but always useful) Links:

But First…

My own personal viewpoint regarding commercially available kits.

I am unabashedly “Old School” when it comes to the hobby. Granted, we can no longer expect to purchase a Cox .049 BabyBee for $3.50 and the associated Baby Ringmaster for $2.50 so I can’t grouse about what the market is willing to bear in that respect. But I do take exception to the idea of paying more than $3.00 for a simple rubber/stick/sheet wing toy when, even at inflated hobby /craft shop balsa prices I can launch the same thing from my own hand for half that. Heck, I might even find a youngster to teach the skill to. Imagine where that might lead!

I remember when I was about ten years old not being able to afford even the ten cent chuck glider (the ice cream cone won out on that decision) but I “did” know how to trace the profile of an airplane on cardboard that my grandmother kept for me from her days at the department store where she worked. I’d cut slots for the wings and tail surfaces and tape a couple of nails for nose weight.

Scale it up, use sheet balsa and hang an Ebay .049 on it and you have a plane that serves well as a trainer for 1/3 the cost of a dealer-supplied kit. Folks…it’s just that simple.

Also, if you *do* have to have that out-of-production $70.00 “RingMaster”, at least get paper copies of the important parts (ribs, wingtips, fuselage bulkheads, etc) made and give them away… that’s right make them a present to anyone willing to pay copy and postage fees. Don’t gouge – this is a hobby, remember. We’re friends here. (Fast Combat guys excepted). You’ll never get rich trying to go commercial, never mind breaking copyright rules in some cases.

This is a great time for control line and all the other relatively inexpensive modeling types to be brought back. The real masters of our craft are still around and the satisfaction of building and flying in the “old school” way is very fulfilling.

OK, I’m off the soapbox now. Remember, comments and criticisms are welcome! Back to the links…

  • National Balsa There are several balsa suppliers and judging which is for you is personal preference. Some folks want to pick each hardness, weight and grain themselves while I take the notion that there will always be good runs of material for the non-competitor with scrap left over for other projects. National Balsa is located right here in my own state so I can place an order and talk to someone on the phone if I have specific needs.
  • Brodak Manufacturing Over ten years supplying control-line flyers with more goodies each years has put this company, based out of Charmichaels Pennsylvania, at the top of nearly every link-list around so it’s no wonder that it is here along with:
  • Sig Manufacturing Along with Brodak above, Sig provides both kits, parts and accessories for control line and free flight activities.
  • Guillows You might be hard-pressed to find anyone who has not had a Guillow’s product at one time or another. As I mentioned, I had the chuck glider and the 15 and 25 cent rubber-powered Piggly-Wiggly toy rack specials. My first full-fuselage plane was their 500 series F6F Hellcat. Not knowing anything about “dope”, I used about twenty of the wee small bottles of Pactra model car enamel. Sure looked war weary in dark blue metal flake! The company has made great strides in recent times with new product lines, including spare parts. I have an FW-190 ready for a build and I’m impressed with the quality of the die-cutting and the obvious changes in the plastic parts. Check out the history page!
  • Dumas Products In with excellent scale rubber planes in a variety of scales, some convertible to electric, this company has also been around quite awhile. The good looks come at a hefty price, though. Laser cut parts make the build relatively easier, but remember my thoughts above on “Old School” modeling.
  • Windy Utinoski A great modeler and a wonderful site. Read and learn. This is way beyond my capability for now, but it’s purely inspirational. There is also a section on electric flight which I have not had the chance to look at yet.

If It Looks Right…

February 7, 2010

…It must fly right… right?

I’m betting on it with this plane, Coquette. In a previous post, I mentioned that I had purchased a copy of a model magazine (American Aircraft Modeler) from Ebay for the month I was born, September, 1955. I had no idea that I was going to find a true treasure inside since I had in fact bought the thing based on its cover alone (popular wisdom notwithstanding).

I don’t have a large vehicle to transport some of the larger models; in fact I don’t have a vehicle at all yet (that’s a later post). In keeping with budgets and practicality, I have decided to downsize my ambitions while keeping enough benefit of scale to be buildable, flyable and, just in case my piloting capabilities are a bit rusty, durable. Originally, I considered the range of .19 to .29 as a maximum powerplant spread, but then I dropped back to my first “big” engine, the Fox .15 hauling a Midwest ME-109 around the circle with enthusiasm! That plane served me quite well until I literally took a “pylon cut” during the balloon bust competition at a local contest near Dallas, tearing the outboard wing to shreds. (As a side note — my spirits were dashed looking at the wreckage and I considered giving up U/C until Al Rabe showed up at that same contest to show off his gorgeous Sea Fury and restored my faith in the hobby. Thanks Al!)

As you can see, I still love that plane and I went on a buying spree for .15’s with the idea of designing and building that scale because of its portablity and good performance on lines of a decent length. I learned to fly the pattern with that plane/engine combination. And that’s why I have a new one ready for a build.

Two New .15's (there are three more used ones)

I think I can go better, though and go even smaller, so when I had a chance at an Enya 0.10, I took it; the intended airframe was a Sig Spitfire. Once I saw the Spit kit, however, I realized that it would likely be underpowered so I contemplated a full design effort from scratch,something with a built up fuselage and stunt-capable.

Then the magazine showed up. This is where I’m going to let the attached pictures sell the plane for itself. As far as I can tell, this would be a great first plane for someone who wants:

  • engine larger than 1/2A
  • built up fuselage
  • traditional building process and simplicity
  • good “eye candy” appeal
  • performance and practicality

Take a look at this one and hit the building boards. I don’t expect to be the first one to get this in the air, but I bet you I may be the first to have full size plans copied. This design just begs to be modified with possible linked flaps and fuselage profile changes, but I think you’ll agree that overall, It Just Looks Right!

Pretty Li'l Thing, Yes?

(click on the images a couple of times to bring them full size)

Kinda' Catches the Eye...

1955 was a "Sterling" Year!

As a final thought, those of you looking to convert fuel to electric might find this a good project! Have fun and comment!

Write me:

Looks Good to Me, Wilbur

February 3, 2010

I’ve been building model airplanes since I was about four years old (see my post “Dustin’ Loose”) and I show no sign of letting up even in my mid ‘50’s. Actually it’s probably because I am in my “middle awakening” years. I don’t have the distractions of a family and there is no limit to the time I can spend building, flying, or at least daydreaming about things that fly. I have plenty of projects to work on during our New England winters and will enjoy putting them into the air and some in the re-kitted form) during the warmer months.

I’ll devote this section of my blog to those things avian, so have fun reading and in some cases learning I hope. I won’t reinvent the wheel, but will try to provide viable links to information and sites of associated interest. I’ll keep it pretty focused on aspects of aviation from my own experience or knowledge, but I certainly appreciate your additions and comments and I’ll incorporate them to make this a good “go to site”. So send me those stories and please be sure to include pictures if you can.

Here’s a great example: from Dennis Leonhardi of New Prague, MN (AMA 343)

“Winter here in the frozen tundra of Minnesota has been cruel this year – blizzards, white-outs, freezing rain and sleet, day after day of wind chills 10 below zero or colder.  Not at all our kind of flying weather!  Then again, we were once a lot younger and more foolish …  This photo was taken in the winter of ’58-’59; flying buddies John, Tom and John kneel behind our control line combat planes of the day.

We weren’t about to let a little snow and cold ruin our flying – although we learned quickly to whip the airplanes around for several laps after the engine quit (or, better yet, do some wind flying) – because a hot engine landing in cold snow makes an awful sound!
(That’s my Riley Wooten “Quicker” in the middle with an OS Max .35 Combat engine up front).”

The Hardy Boyz

About a dozen years ago, I lived in a huge three-story Victorian that my wife and I were restoring to be a bed and breakfast inn between the two most famous casinos in New England. It was the perfect setup. It was a great location and I had a wonderful workshop complete with all the tools to pursue my hobbies and do the restoration for the house. As fortune and my poor judgment would have it, I suffered a personal setback and had to give it all up.

Now I’m in a small garret apartment which I share with “Beth, the Amazing Corgi/sumptin'”and have only just managed to get the basement cleaned out to become a workspace. In those past years, though, and before I got a grip on my impulsive spending behaviors, I managed to collect most of the model kits, books and tools that I have had ever since my very young days. In fact, I have twice what I had then in the way of engines, books and models so I’m going to be “very” busy for some time to come. I suppose I better start looking for a bigger place to live or a place to display my models.

Just a glimpse...

Flying Models Are in the Basement

Speaking of which…Before my local barber retired, he operated a one chair shop in our small town which was the hometown of Ft Devens. Before the base closed in 1996, he was the prime source for those “high and tight” cuts favored by the Army. Since its closure, Ft Devens has been an Army reserve center, so the shop was still doing well with its regulars, mostly made up of reservists and veterans, myself included. With all the military as clientele you can imagine the decor was more like an Army-Navy shop than anything else with 1940’s recruiting posters, models of armor and shell and mortar casings of all kinds. At one point I was pretty shy of haircut cash but I told George, that I could supply a couple of aircraft models for display with the rest of the forty-plus years of military memorabilia. He took me up on the offer since many of his regulars were former Army Air Corps. As a result, I was even commissioned to build a couple more.

Barber Barter

When I was old enough to work (mowing lawns and cleaning pools) I saved up enough to buy a Cox BabyBee .049 and commenced to build my first control liner. I didn’t have enough money for a kit, so I decided to try my hands at building a “Cardboard Cutie” from scaled up plans I found in the 1970 November edition of American Aircraft Modeler. (Yes, I recently went back and got another copy of the magazine).

My first "Cutie"! (click to open full)

The plane itself was not that difficult to build as far as laying it out and cutting goes, however I’ll make a few changes the next time; and there ‘will” be a next time:

  • Use lightweight cardboard, not the super strong and heavy stuff that I got from an empty refrigerator box
  • Use fuel-proof glue instead of Elmer’s best white glue. (Who would have thought such a little thing would make such a difference. I mean, I let it dry almost four hours for heaven’s sake!)
  • Airplanes are supposed to look good. Again, who would think that it would take three cans of paint to get a decent gloss?
  • Finally, 1970’s monofilament fishing line is really stretchy. The whole control system would be redesigned to use a bellcrank and horn system with spiderwire fishing line or .008 steel lines.

My father, always the patient and pragmatic fellow accompanied me to the schoolyard for the solo flight. He helped me fuel up and we did get the engine screaming full screech as only that .049 can do and and I walked to the center of the circle hands shaking, knees about to fold and heart pounding like mad. On my signal, Dad let the plane go and stood back, cigarette in one hand and Lone Star in the other.

The plane made a valiant effort to get airborne, but it was pretty much the same as the wonderful old films of early flight attempts. It waddled around almost three laps before the tail lifted and the poor creature finally gathered enough speed for the engine/prop to get their teeth into the dry Texas air.

Finally! Flight!

Or maybe not. Halfway down the backstretch (downwind) leg, the combination of engine vibration*, the oil-soaked cardboard, and defective glue caused the engine, firewall and attached landing gear to part company with the patriotic red, white and blue fuselage (carcass). The longest recorded flight of that day then, was the equipment section forward of and including the firewall: estimated at 120 feet and lasting about twelve seconds. Sound familiar?

I would finally break into the fun part of control line flying in the venerable Cox PT-19, below.

"Put me in that circle!"

That story and more will follow this post. Tell your friends and let’s pass along our favorite stories! Also remember one of the cardinal rules: take pictures before the first flight!

*Note –The engine was only held by two screws spaced diametrically apart, cuz they were the only ones I could find small enough to fit through the tiny lug holes of the Cox. I took them from the bottom of my mother’s curler/steamer thing.